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Monday, Dec 01, 2008
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Delightful, Delicious, Decadent, Dawson: A city frozen in time! |
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| Delightful, Delicious, Decadent, Dawson: A city frozen in time! | |
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by Rev. Barbara Allen, CMP -
SGN Contributing Writer It began with the discovery of gold in 1896 at Bonanza (Rabbit) Creek where gold nuggets were large enough to be visible beneath the creek water. This sparked the Klondike Gold Rush and transformed Dawson City from what natives called "Moose Pasture" into the "Paris of the North", famous for "spending sprees of epic proportions". Before the Gold Rush it was a native summer fishing camp located on the junction of the Klondike and Yukon Rivers. With further discoveries of gold in Dawson, the population reached up to 40,000 people who appreciated, could afford, and secured modern amenities not available in other northern areas at that time, including: telephone service, running water, electric light, and steam heat. Elaborate hotels, theatres, and dance halls were built and a respectable library funded at the same time that brothels and saloons did brisk business. There was a school and, to this day, church bells usher in Sunday mornings. (The first winter of the new arrivals, 1897, was a time of starvation after word had gotten to the outside world of the gold strike, and early birds rushed in without the supplies needed to support the concentration of men in the area. This was resolved in 1898 with the arrival of the majority of the gold seekers being required to bring the proper and required 2000 lbs of supplies each.) In the summer of 1899 the Gold Rush came to an end. Eight thousand left Dawson City for the sands of Nome, Alaska where another strike had been made. In 1902, Dawson was incorporated as a city and held the territorial government seat from 1898 to 1953. Year 'round population today is about 1,500, (triple that in summer). The First Nations people (the original natives) relocated downstream to an area called "Moosehide" during the Gold Rush and continue living there in their traditional way with original buildings still in use. The "Moosehide Gathering", held every other year, is a gathering of First Nations Peoples from all over the Yukon and Alaska where young and old share songs, stories, history and culture, and all are welcome. Things haven't changed much in over a century, with active gold prospecting ongoing in a legendary place historically known for, excess, debauchery, and licentiousness. Where fortunes were hard won and easily lost. Dawson City is deliberately frozen in time as a National Historic Park, where families can have a wonderful active vacation at surprisingly reasonable cost. The first stop for all tourists in Dawson City should be their Visitor Information Centre (VIC); where they'll be greeted by gracious ladies wearing authentic turn of the 19th Century costumes. Dawson's original buildings from that era are kept intact. The streets are dirt, no paving (when it rains there are still boardwalks to keep skirts clean). At the VIC, watch their film presentation, acquire brochures and the publication "Welcome to Dawson City" which lists daily events, along with additional personalized information and guidance from the pleasant staff. The historic business of the Klondike, which includes Dawson City, is gold mining by any useful method, including tourism. Work a pan at Claim 33 during the day where you're guaranteed to find gold); tour the city with a Park guide; visit Gold Dredge #4; tour the Danoja Zho Cultural Center and experience their ancient culture, see miles of mounds of river rocks ("gold tailings"); fish nearby streams; dine well at relatively reasonable cost; visit museums; enjoy a concert or an art class; take part in many daily events; hoist a few at old-time bars. Don't miss the three storey Palace Grand Theater, part of the City Tour, private boxes above, fashioned after European (Parisian turn of the century) opera houses, where spirits, food and personalized entertainment (with curtains drawn) were once enjoyed. This remains a non-judgmental city with a lusty history. Klondike Kate, born Kathleen (Kate) Rockwell in Junction City, Kansas, on October 4th, 1876, and arrived in Dawson City when it became known as the "Paris of the North", quickly became one of its most famous citizens. She was a vivacious entertainer with a spectacular figure, who knew how to show it when working at the Palace Grand Theatre. She later bought the Orpheum Theatre. Kate was crowned by some miners: "The Queen of the Klondike", "flower of the North" and the "Darling of Dawson". She died in February 1957 at age 80. (Her ghost is said to haunt one of the upstairs dressing rooms of the Palace Grand Theatre.) Breakfast heartily at Klondike Kate's with local residents for a good start on the day, before heading into the gold fields to seek your fortune, or touring the city. They've got all the usual menu items, and more, reasonably priced. See the full menu posted at on their websites, www.klondikekates.ca. This historic site also offers log cabin accommodations. Don't miss Diamond Tooth Gerties Gambling Hall (adults only), Canada's most unique and oldest legal casino, featuring real gambling, live can-can girls, complete food and beverage service (from Big Al's Kitchen full and well prepared menu), all presented in true Gold Rush Klondike style. The building was constructed in 1910 by the Arctic Brotherhood (the equivalent of the Yukon Order of Pioneers) as the centre of Dawson's most important social gatherings. When the KVA (Klondike Visitors Association) took over in 1971, it was transformed into a popular non-profit casino named after a famous dance-hall queen, Gertie Lovejoy, who received her nickname, "Diamond Tooth Gertie", from having a diamond inserted between her two front teeth. Revenue from Gerties is re-invested in the community to preserve history, produce local events and tourist attractions, and to promote the Klondike area, particularly Dawson City non-profits, that include: upkeep and staffing Jack London's cabin and coordinating the International Outhouse Race over Labor Day Weekend; the World Goldpanning Championship attended by prospectors from 22 countries at the end of August, and much more. See their website, www.dawsoncity.ca, for details. Gerties offers most casino favorites. There are 3 different nightly shows at 8:30 p.m., 10:30 p.m. and 12:00 a.m. featuring Diamond Tooth Gertie herself (the midnight show's a sizzler). (I have a souvenir can-can garter, don't ask how it was acquired, 'cause I won't tell). Audience members may become part of the show, which is great fun. Diamond Tooth Gerties regular season runs from May 11 until September 23. The doors open from 7:00 p.m. until 2:00 a.m. Mon. through Thurs.; Friday through Sunday from 2 p.m. to 2 a.m.. There's a $6.00 admission fee, which includes access to all the gambling you care to do, and all three shows! On Cemetery Ridge high on Dome Mountain overlooking Dawson City are the remains of men and women from throughout the world who lived and died here. In addition to the usual Christian and fraternal plot areas marked with crosses there is "Beth Chaim," the resting place of at least five, but more likely eight Jewish merchants, and their families (as many as 200) who lived and worked here during and after the Klondike Gold Rush. These resting places have been restored and surrounded with a white picket fence, as is the case throughout the cemetery. Beth Chaim is identified by a Star of David crafted from branches, painted white to match. It seemed at first glance a surprising place to find the wandering descendants of the children of Israel, but then made sense. On a building exterior in the city itself, a poem by Robert Service, the Bard of the Yukon. The Spell of the Yukon I wanted the gold and I sought it; I scrabbled and mucked like a slave. Was it famine or scurvy - I fought it; I hurled my youth into a grave. I wanted the gold and I got it - Came out with a fortune last fall - Yet somehow life's not what I thought it; And somehow the gold isn't all. |
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