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Sunday, Oct 12, 2008
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| Part 1: Exotic, beautiful Juneau |
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America's most scenic state capital by Rev. Barbara Allen, CMP - SGN Contributing Writer You can't drive here, or arrive by train. There are no tracks or roads through the rugged mountains, awesome glaciers, lush rain forests (150 inches/yr.), land of occasional Sasquatch sightings. Everything from outside arrives by intercoastal waterways or aircraft. Alaska's first gold strike was here in 1880, which brought with it the makings of a booming, still thriving city. The longest road, from one end of the entire Juneau area to the other is just 40 miles, mostly along the salt water. Downtown, by the water, is fairly level, and then rises up steep hills until the mountains and forests are reached&it's not a long way up slope, nowhere in the city is very far from anywhere else. Sportsmen come to hike, kayak, fish salt and fresh water; tourists, disgorged from cruise ships the size of a small state, come by the thousands daily during spring, summer, and fall, to whale-watch, view wildlife, visit world class museums and art shops, tour the city, ride the Mt. Roberts tram, visit the state's largest and most recently operating gold mine, pan for gold, and eat exotic food from around the world. The glaciers are awesome, close up and accessible. Nevertheless, the climate here is similar to that of Seattle, except for an annual rainfall of about 150", instead of Seattle's 57 inches. And then, there's the Alaskan world class brewery! We arrived via Alaska State Ferry from Skagway, early enough to find the well run and delightful Spruce Meadows campground, be assigned a lovely site in the woods, and warned to watch out for bears. A short distance down the road from Spruce Meadows is the Mendenhall Glacier, which has been retreating significantly, to the point that one can no longer just walk from the visitors center directly onto it, but must hike a goat track of a trail some distance, if able. As you drive towards the Glacier it looms huge, tall and ominous, as though it could overtake the road and area, an impressive sight and experience! The Juneau Visitors Center was most helpful in providing information and leads as to where I should go and what should be experienced; and they were right. My only problem was having enough time. The biggest, don't miss it in daylight, tourist attraction in Juneau is the Mt. Roberts Tram, on the perimeter of downtown, close enough for cruise-boat folks to walk there and go for the ride to the top, experiencing a breathtaking aerial view, and then the excellent film, art work, and food that are part of the venue. This is Native owned and operated, and a great job they do of it! Juneau's other most fascinating and unique attraction is the 3 ½ hour historic Juneau gold mine tour. Constructed in 1913, the Alaska Gastineau Mill was a revolutionary plant that introduced new technologies to the mining industry. Tours include guided and narrated tours through the mill ruins, rain forest, and up Mt. Roberts. Old equipment is displayed, guides explain different mining methods, and the view of the Gastineau Channel below is marvelous. You'll go underground in a required hard hat, along a boardwalk, about 360 feet into a tunnel, where experienced miners demonstrate hard rock mining techniques, and give you a feel for the mining "lifestyle". At the end of the tour, after a brief demonstration, you get to pan for gold and garnets from mine tailings. Pay dirt is guaranteed, and you keep what you find. Do not miss the excellent Alaska State Museum and gift shop in Juneau!!! If you enjoy world class prize-winning beer, stout, and ale, do not miss the free Alaskan Brewing company tour and tasting. This unique brewery has quickly captured world-wide recognition! They offer "Great Beer from the Last Frontier" in seven varieties: Amber, Pale, ESB (extra special bitter), Stout, Winter Ale (available only in winter), Summer Ale (available in summer), and the inspiring, unique, gold medal winning, smoke flavored Alaskan Smoked Porter, introduced in 1988! Before the tour I bellied up to their bar, which has seven taps for seven brews, and began carefully tasting, just an ounce of each at a time, starting with the mildest. By the time I got to the dark Smoked Porter, I was dubious, and asked for just a half ounce. It was different, unusual, something to think about, which I did during the tour, after which I once again bellied up to the bar, and tried another tablespoonful. This is a brew that you don't chug back, that would be sacrilege. You slowly "chew and savor" this one, being transported to ancient subliminal memories of old world feasts from centuries past. I asked if it was available in the lower 48, and was advised that it usually doesn't leave the brewery, as locals buy up most of the run each year, but might be found briefly, elsewhere. And, at the brewery, they didn't have much left either of the 16 ounce dark brown bottles. I bought all they'd allow me to have, which wasn't much, the run goes quickly, and the brewery staff has first dibs on it. Don't fail to taste this marvelous brew, and, if available, buy it there, you might never find it elsewhere! I'm hoarding a few bottles for special occasions and friends who truly appreciate the finer things in life. www.alaskanbeer.com Before leaving, after savoring the brew, I bought the Smoked Porter T-shirt and sweat shirt. Note that I don't usually drink beer, or walk around wearing a beer advertisement. I wonder if my purchases had anything to do with sampling all of the others, and few glasses of the Porter afterwards. Luckily my companion did not drink, and became an instant designated driver. Our last in-town stop that day was the secluded Juneau Costco, like no other of the chain, at the base of mist-wrapped rain forest mountains, a ways from the highway as in: if you don't already know where to go, you won't find it. (And besides, I was still enjoying the Smoked Porter after glow.) Here, we found cold weather clothing suited to the area, standard Costco items, and a complete liquor store where I was able to purchase foil wrapped chocolate bottles containing cordials, brandy, tequila, in a wonderful display box. They did not have a Food Court. Darn! Then, back to Spruce Meadows, in the dark, and dinner. More later about where to dine well, for less, where to fly for the best salmon bbq in Alaska, all in delightfully surprising Juneau. |
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| Halloween on Capitol Hill
Slide Show photos by Joey - SGN photographer |
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